Bikes Below Sea Level

A Bicycle Tour of Death Valley

 Our spirit of adventure has some limits so Pat and I plan our trip in early April when the desert is still in the process of getting warm and the wild flowers are in bloom. Our definition of adventure doesn't include doing dishes and worrying about luggage so we let Backroads Bicycle Touring take care of these and other details.

 We arrive at Furnace Creek at about three o'clock Monday afternoon and are met by two of the Backroads leaders, Dan and Jeff. Dan and twelve of us board a small bus for a 52 mile ride to the campground at Mesquite Springs. Along the way the driver provides a running commentary on the flora, fauna, fables and history of the valley.

 Michael, the third Backroads leader, is already at the camp and has started dinner. Dan shows us how to set up a two-person tent. Pat and I pick a spot, pitch our tent and set up housekeeping. Others arrive and soon our tour group of 26 is fully assembled.

 Hors d'oeuvres and a selection of fine California jug wines set the mood as our leaders take turns entertaining us with their version of an orientation to Death Valley, a description of the trip they have planned and tips on bicycle touring. They give us a set of day-by-day route directions and a list of the names and addresses of the group. A round of self introductions begins to convert "group" to "friends."

For dinner there is a choice of chicken or beef grilled over charcoal, scalloped potatoes, asparagus, salad, and for dessert, carrot cake baked in Dutch ovens. Even without a bicycle ride to build an appetite, dinner is excellent.

 We have been forewarned that the progress of the trip will be marked by improvements in the showers each evening. Tonight there are public toilets and wash basins, but no showers.
 
 

Up, Down, Up, Down

A long graceful ride takes us down and across the green, north end of the valley. We work our way up the other side of the valley and climb to the rim of Ubehebe Crater, a half mile hole that was blown out of the earth thousands of years ago when molten lava turned ground water to explosive steam. The 500 foot sides of the crater are patterned with desert earth tones, sculptured by erosion and highlighted by splashes of tiny yellow flowers.

 We ride back down and across the valley then up, then up some more to Scotty's Castle. At 3,000 feet above sea level it is cool. There are green lawns shaded by cottonwoods and palm trees that offer a refreshing break for lunch.

 The Castle was the result of a scam that tuned to friendship and became a legend. It was built in the 1920's and sold to the U.S. Government in 1970. The National Park Service now provides tours complete with a stories that are probably true and tales that probably aren't. As an example, we are shown a "bullet splitter" in the wall of Scotty's bedroom that was designed to kill two bad guys with a single shot.

 Tonight we take the first step up the shower scale-solar heated showers (in swimsuits) besides the Backroads trailer. Dinner has an Italian flair followed by Dutch oven chocolate cake then an evening around the camp fire under the stars.
 
 

Long Ride Down

As we ride south and drop to lower altitudes, the terrain becomes more barren and rocky. There are scattered patches of lush green grass that provide a counterpoint to the dryness. There are occasional bunches of yellow daisies along the road, red and yellow cactus, dainty little flowers tucked in the rocks and strange shaped plants that have evolved to deal with the dry, hot desert. Stopping to look at the flowers is both a treat and an excuse to got off the bicycle seat for a few minutes.

 Today it starts getting hot. Fortunately, we are moving up the shower scale. This evening we have hot, public showers at the campground. Dan fixes dinner with a Mexican theme including burritos and chili rieno. It is warmer and the camp ground is protected from the wind so we spend the night under the stars without tents.
 
 

Up then Down

 At Dante's View we are 5,475 feet up and the air is 25 degrees cooler than on the floor of the Valley. The panorama is spectacular. Below us is the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere with the snowcapped Panamint mountains and 11,049 foot Telegraph Peak in the background.

 This morning's uphill promises an afternoon of downhill. It is very steep at first, then just steep enough to occasionally need brakes, then gentle enough for a choice between leisurely coasting or peddling gently and going like the wind.

 Tonight we have moved from campgrounds and sleeping bags to a motel room with a hot shower. We have also moved up from Dutch ovens dinners to luxury dining at the Furnace Creek Inn.
 
 

Down then Up

 Evaporation has left salt flats that are now covered by about a half an inch of water. Reflections create the illusion that we are walking on the water.

 The Valley's heat has caught us and we have to ride back uphill to Furnace Creek. My Butterball button almost pops, but we make it back for an ice cream cone and the end of the tour.

Death Valley - The California Desert
4 day camping trip
1996: 3/11, 3/18 (singles), 3/25, 4/1, 4/8
1997: 3/10, 3/17, 3/24, 3/31, 4/7 (singles)
Showers: solar 2 nights, hot 2 nights
Trip price: $678 (includes all meals)
Rental bike: $98
 

REI Adventures offers seven day bicycle tours in October and March. They take a totally different route and rate their trip "fairly rugged". For additional information, call them at (800) 622-2236.

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